A Week in Joshua Tree

DAY 1: Getting to Yucca Valley

Saturday, November 2, 2019

Travel days are never that exciting, and this one wasn’t any different. My morning started off hella early - my mom brought me to the airport around 5 am Central Time and I would have two flights that would get me to Ontario around 1pm Mountain Time. I know what you’re thinking… ‘Angee, this post is about Joshua Tree, not about Canada… by the way, where IS your blog post on Canada!?’ (I’m working on it, I promise). BUT we flew into Ontario airport which is in Orange County, CA - a little farther south of LAX. My brother and I had to check our tickets approximately 78 times to make sure we were both flying to California, and not to Canada…

My brother, Matt, and I met up at the airport around 2pm and set off on our journey of getting a rental car and making the 2ish hour drive to Joshua Tree. If anyone has ever tried to book a campsite at a national park, you know they fill up HELLA fast — so we had booked our week-long stay a couple months in advance, and we still couldn’t get a site in the park for our first night.. PRO TIP! You can’t find a campsite? Find a BLM site — the Bureau of Land Management has publicly owner land that you can just set up camp at. There are no bathrooms or running water, there are rules, but it’s a free spot to lay your head if you’re not too high-maintenance.

Of course by the time we got to the BLM site, it was dark - and I mean PITCH dark. The mountains block any inkling of light from the setting sun and since we’re in the desert in Joshua Tree, which according to the census, is uninhabited - there wasn’t much light for us to go by. So we drove down some “roads” and eventually landed in what looked like a campsite… a wide open space between various desert shrubs. And that’s where we slept for the night.

See the full Day 1 Gallery Below:

Day 2: First Day In Joshua Tree National Park!

Sunday, November 3, 2019

We woke up at our BLM site and immediately started laughing at what we saw. Since we couldn’t really see anything when we got there the night before, it was a surprise to wake up to flat, dusty, land for miles in each direction. In the distance, we saw a couple roads - the sounds of cars sometimes carrying over the flat land. It was hilarious. We packed up relatively quickly and made our way back into the “city” of Joshua Tree to hit up the National Park Visitor Center and then head into the park.

The Visitor Center had signs everywhere warning “Don’t Die Today.” Bold marketing move, but it worked - for us at least. As I’ve noticed in a lot of my National Park travels, people assume that because this nature is “managed” in some way, it must be safe. WRONG. If you are in Yellowstone National Park - there are bears. They will smell your food, and they will try their damndest to find it. You need to keep it in bear-safe containers. If you are in Zion National Park, you are probably climbing mountains - mountains are tall, there are cliffs, and uneven footing. You need to be careful. And if you are in Joshua Tree National Park, you are in the desert - it is dry, hot, and there is no water in the park limits. You need to plan accordingly. So while these fliers were jarring at first glance - they’re right… You can die out there…

So we filled up on water, grabbed some maps, and made our way into the park. Of the nine developed campgrounds Joshua Tree has, we stayed in Jumbo Rocks Campground (aptly named if you were wondering) which is “centrally located.” I use quotes there because most of the action of the park is found between the city of Joshua Tree and the city of Twentynine Palms, but the park extends much farther south than that. So - we drove 21 miles into the park from Joshua Tree and stopped at some pull outs to explore along the way. By the time we got to our campground it was only around 11am, so we were glad to see our campsite was already free for us to set up.

Two midwesterners in the desert sun goes about as well as you’d expect - we were SO excited to be there, but the sun took almost ALL of the energy out of us, quickly. We took the day easy - meandered around the campsite, checked out some easy trails that weren’t far away, and I took some photos as sunset approached. We realized we forgot a lot of things, including marshmallow sticks (you can’t just find them in the woods like you can in good old Wisconsin) - so we had fire grilled smores, with the grill marks and all.

Check out the full Day 2 gallery below:

DAY 3: Rock Climbing in J Tree

Monday, November 4, 2019

Holy shit the desert gets cold at night!! I mean, I knew this would be the case, but seeing as how I was sweating through my t-shirt yesterday, I expected to not feel like my nose would fall off at night. BUT, here we were - I was waking up shivering, my jeans and long-sleeve were'n’t enough to keep me warm and I practically sprinted out of my tent to bask in the sun. It was in this moment I understood lizards.

Matt and I decided that we wanted to go climbing today. Joshua Tree is very well known in the climbing community to be one of THE spots to go sport climbing - so much so that the National Park Service even has a tab on climbing on their Joshua Tree page.. There are lots of bouldering problems within the park limits, as well as top-rope, lead, and the list goes on. I had bought some climbing shoes special for this trip, and Matt had been scouring Mountain Project (an app for finding climbing routes anywhere in the country) for weeks to find the routes he wanted to hit.

We packed up our stuff and made our way to a route off of Lost Horse Road - an unmarked dirt road just past the Hidden Valley Campground. As we make our way down this road - there is dirt flying up in every which direction, random pull-outs packed with vans of fellow climbers. We get to pull-off C - labeled by the park to help climbers and try to keep some sort of marked path to protect the ecosystem. We walk 10 minutes down to path to find out it was the wrong path - turn around, stub my toe, bleed on the desert sand. Shit. Wrap my toe up in bright green gaffers tape and hope for the best.

We go to pull-out D and make our way down the winding trail, covered with brush and cacti, and Joshua Trees towering over my 6’6” brother. We passed wild agave and flowering desert plants to find the wall Matt wanted to climb in the Atlantis Area. Matt set up and climbed this route 3 times. Once to set up the gear, once to climb it through, and then once again to take all of his gear out of the wall. He was begging me to climb - I didn’t. We spent a couple hours here and then went over to Hidden Valley to make ourselves lunch - gourmet PB&J and grapes. Yum. Then we basked in the sun on some rocks in the Hidden Valley loop hike - 50 feet above the hikers passing by.

We ended up needing to go into town for a couple of things - a water jug, some food, etc. and we were lucky that there was a Walmart within 30 minutes of the park. So we checked out Joshua Tree a bit and got back to our campsite just in time to watch the sunset from the massive rocks at the campsite’s entrance. Rich, saturated colors filled the sky and dripped onto the pale rocks. The rocks changed from sand to deep pinks and golds, purples, and even blues. I know what it sounds like, and I know the reputation of Joshua Tree, but I promise there were no hallucinogens involved in this - it was just nature doing its magic. Check out the photos in the gallery below for proof.

We had a neighbor set up camp next to us today. So when we got back from watching the sunset, we invited him over for a fire and smores. By 6pm, it’s pitch black. By 7pm, Tom comes walking over with his Patagonia, headlamp, and camp chair. We spend the next couple hours chatting… Tom is on a cross country road-trip that he started 6 weeks before in Delaware. He went to National Parks all along his drive - stopping in Atlanta, Zion, Bryce, Arches, and more - all of his belongings in his car, and sleeping in a tent every night. He was about 23, and was spending a few days in Joshua Tree before heading up the coast to San Francisco, and then flying to New Zealand. His sense of adventure was inspiring, and it made me wonder if I’d ever do something like that.

Check out the full Day 3 gallery below:

Day 4: The Hot Sun, An Old Mine, & A Silver Bullet Trailer

Tuesday, November 5, 2019

I woke up with the sunrise. Still a little cold outside, I left the warmth of my blankets and ventured out into the dawn in a sweatshirt and a beanie. Skull Rock Trail went through our campgrounds, so I walked down the street to the trail head, and scrambled up on some rocks just in time to see the sun peak over the horizon. It was a crazy thing to watch - the desert working as a canvas for the sun; blue shadows warming into golden orange beams. I don’t remember the last time I saw the sun rise. It might have been at a warehouse party… this was much different.

Matt and I did our own thing for most of the day. I wandered around, and caught up on some writing. Matt was more than enamored with the book he was reading (Che Guevara: A Revolutionary Life) so when I got back to camp, we spent the day hanging out, reading, writing, and relaxing.

After the sun wasn’t so intense, we decided to go on a longer hike. Southern California was obviously a big hit during the gold rush, so there are various abandoned mines scattered all over the place - two or three within the borders of Joshua Tree National Park. We decided to go on the Lost Horse Mine Trail - a 4 mile round-trip hike that takes you to a once successful gold mine. The hike was cool. It was rather secluded, so it was quiet, and you could hear the wind wisp through the cactus needles. The sun was hot, we were sweaty, but it was definitely a good call to go later in the day. We hiked up a mountain and eventually came upon an old mine. Story says, the guy who built this mine wandered back into the mountains in search of his lost horse, hence the name… By the time we got to the mine, we were beat… but if we hiked up another 100 ft. we’d be at the top of Lost Horse Mountain - so obviously we had to do that. We complained the whole time trudging up crumbling rock and dodging cacti, but we got to the top of the mountain and it was well worth it. You could see everything for miles and mile on the top. You could see the different types of the desert ecosystem - where there was foliage, where there wasn’t. The wind was intense up here, but dust wasn’t flying in our faces.

Even though the hike was “moderate” - we were exhausted when we got done with the hike. We were full of sweat, dirt, and our waters were almost empty. The sun takes a lot out of you in the desert, so we decided to go back to camp and hang out. Matt kept reading about Che, and I found a lounge chair made of rocks where I wrote a bit of poetry, and then decided to go out and take some photos. The photo shoot was cut short when I noticed my camera battery was almost out, so in hopes of finding some sort of electricity in the park (side note: there is none) I went over to the camp staff to see if they had any ideas.

As I approached the silver bullet trailer, a young woman walked out - early 30s, brown hair, lightening from the sun. I asked if she’d know where I could charge my camera to catch the sunset, and she graciously welcomed me into her trailer to use her solar charger. He trailer was like no other silver bullet trailer I’d ever seen. It was totally re-vamped on the inside, with white ship lap and hard wood floors. Her bed was lofted and there were plants everywhere. It was out of a Pinterest dream. We chatted for hours. She came here from Massachusetts looking for a change - she had been the president of a union for 6 years — the young woman union president in U.S. history. She loved it, but it took a lot out of her. So she found a job posting for a volunteer camp host for the National Park Service and jumped at the chance. Next thing you know, she’s rehabbing an old trailer and driving across the country with her two cats to go live in the desert - with no shower, no cell service, and no internet. We talked about life, and boys, and being woman, and being a young woman, and being a young woman in a “man’s industry.” It was enlightening and goofy. And she told me that the desert gets lonely sometimes, and this helped. I thought the same thing. So as the sun began to set and the air became cooler, I helped her set up her brand new solar shower and headed back to camp to layer up.

On my way back, I ran into Tom, our neighbor, and he invited us to go watch the sunset. You’d think that we would get over watching the sunset, or watching it just because it was something to do in the desert - but it really wasn’t. I tried to capture the beauty through the pictures I took, but you and I both know that that doesn’t always work out the best. The sunsets out here were unbelievable… Strong saturated colors creating a stark gradient across the sky. Somehow those colors seeping onto the rocks.. I ran around snapping pictures, and Matt and Tom climbed up to the large rocks to get a view of the sunset and the campgrounds below.

As it got darker, I decided that I should scramble up the rocks to find Tom and Matt. It was less of a scramble and more of a climb, and in hindsight I shouldn’t have done it alone, or with all of my camera gear… but I’m still around to talk about it so I guess it was okay. After much difficulty, I got to the top of the rocks and found Matt, Tom, and another figure I didn’t recognize - his name, I later found out was Brian. Brian was hilarious and strange. Here we are, 70 feet up on this giant rock in the middle of the desert, and he’s talking about conspiracy theories, and math, and how he free solos to feel alive. We talked about sociology, photography, politics, and almost everything else under the sun. 4 total strangers (except me and my brother) chatting on top of a giant rock, in Joshua Tree National Park, watching the sun disappear below the horizon line like we had been friends for years. It was so refreshing.

Check out the full Day 4 gallery below:

Day 5: An Artist’s Paradise

Wednesday, November 6, 2019

We decided we should have at least one day in town, and I wanted to go thrifting - so we woke up, ate breakfast, and headed into Joshua Tree. The visitor’s center was bustling, and we bought some shirts and patches before I walked across the street to find the most beautiful silk suit set I’ve ever seen. Matt was a trooper, and we went to every thrift store in Joshua Tree (there were only about 5), and stopped in at all the cute boutiques (like Jen’s Pirate Booty) before getting some lunch at the Joshua Tree Saloon. This was the first time we had wifi on this trip. So he and I laughed way too hard over memes at lunch, and I found out from his mac & cheese order that my brother was now a vegetarian! I got a pulled pork sandwich (sorry) and ate my fries like they were the best thing in the world.

From there, we went to check out this local artist area called the Sun Alley Shops. It’s this little alley off the main drag where local artists can rent out small spaces to sell out of. It was super cool! Lots of local art, a book store, music store, jewelry store, 2 music stages, a couple of food trucks, and the most insane installation I’ve seen… It’s like we walked into Burning Man… After talking to the artist, we learned that it was an old watch tower from a Vietnam prison and they made it into this funky disco lounge in the middle of the desert..

Next door we visited Shari Elf - probably my favorite artist of the trip. Her studio was GORGEOUS - taking thrifted finds and amplifying them with her own art. She had funky finds all over the place, surrounding the store and the World Famous Crochet Museum.. Yes, you read that right. The World Famous Crochet Museum… A small trailer crowded with everything CROCHET. Dolls, plates, cups, scarves, toys - whatever you can think of - it’s crocheted, and it’s in that little green trailer. I bought some stuff from Shari - who wasn’t even in the store… it was just Scout’s honor to Venmo her for what you bought, and then I ventured on.

We went next door to Beauty Bubble Salon and Museum and my jaw hit the floor. Why there isn’t a Vice article or photo series on this place, I have NO idea - but I took enough photos to publish my own book on it (which you can check out in the full gallery below). This place was like the 1950s met Burning Man met a pin-up model’s paradise met an eccentric artist. It was amazing, vibrant, and vintage in every way… and it was an ACTUAL FUNCTIONAL salon!! The owner welcomed us in, let me take all the pictures I wanted, and told me about how his art will be shown in the San Francisco airport next fall. This spot is a definite must see!

Stored and arted-out — we headed back into the park. We stopped for water and saw a bunch of quails running across the road which made us burst into laughter. We stopped along the way back to the campsite to appease me wanting an influencer-esque photo next to a Joshua Tree (again, thank you Matt). Matt stepped on my sunglasses, which I’ve had for 8+ years - so let’s take a moment of silence and end the day here.

Check out the full Day 5 gallery below:

Day 6: 29 Palms is Not an Oasis, But There Are Oases There…

Thursday, November 7, 2019

Y’all - let me tell you right now not to waste your time going to 29 Palms if you’re in the Joshua Tree area… Matt and I figured that because Joshua Tree wasn’t even an incorporated city, there might be more in 29 Palms, so we decided to check it out… Nope. There was nothing there. Unless you want 72 barbershop options that all give the same military buzz-cut, 29 different nail salons, or a one or two military outlet stores - there is nothing for you here..

We went to the Visitor Center here (pro tip - it’s cheaper than the one in Joshua Tree and a little bigger) and walked around the Oasis of Mara that’s right outside. I’m sure it was beautiful at one point, but between being so close to the visitor center, the road, and having a paved walkway - it wasn’t my favorite place from this trip… After we did the 1/2 mile, paved loop; we decided we wanted to see if we could find anything else in the area. We ended up at this cute little gallery called the 29 Palms Art Gallery. There were three semi-large rooms where there were beautiful sculptures of found items, sculptures, painting, and more. One thing that the desert doesn’t lack is really really talented artists.

From here, we decided to do a bit of a longer hike to a different oasis. We went on the 2.8 mile round-trip Fortynine Palms hike. You feel like you’re walking on Mars - sand and gravel everywhere and all of a sudden through the hills you see a BUNCH of tall-ass palm trees! It was crazy!! A true oasis! We went on the hike in the afternoon and we were so glad we did, because we got some shade on the trail - so I would definitely suggest this hike later in the day!

After that, we spent a whopping 30 minutes driving around, laughing at how empty it was until we decided to go get ice cream. Matt was all excited because he saw there was a Cold Stone in town, so as we’re pulling into the parking lot - we see that it is closed… CLOSED! An ice cream shop CLOSED in the desert!? Someone should be arrested… Matt was pissed and now we were both craving ice cream.. We decided to cut our losses with 29 Palms and drive 20 miles to Steak & Shake to get Mint Chocolate Cookie Shakes. Honestly, it was worth it.

From there, we hung out at the campsite for a while, made dinner, and then headed to the Indian Cove Campground outside of 29 Palms for a ranger talk on the dark sky. I know most people shy away from these, because they think they’re too cool for them or that they’re geared towards kids, but they’re usually not! I’ve found that it’s a great way to learn a lot more about the environment you’re in & if gives you the opportunity to ask questions that may have been on your mind.

So we drive up to the campground at night. It was a nice drive that brought us to this really cool atrium surrounded by rocks. We talked about light pollution and how it disrupts our view of the night sky - something I was all too familiar with from moving from the suburbs of Wisconsin to the city of Chicago… What I wasn’t aware of is that there is an organization devoted to just our dark sky… the International Dark Sky Association. They provide education on light pollution, suggest ways we can prevent light pollution, and also awards places around that world that work to preserve our night sky - so next time you want to see a CRAZY night sky - check out one of these places.

While on our way back to the campground, we did a quick shoot at a cool gas-station turned Thai-food place to take advantage of the warm night air. (Thanks again Matt).

Check out the full Day 6 Gallery Below:

Day 7: Last Full Day in J Tree

Friday, November 8, 2019

I watched the sunrise then did the rest of the Skull Rock Trail. Well, tried to. I took a wrong turn and got lost in the desert for a bit. I didn’t have water and the sun was getting hotter. I didn’t feel like I was in total danger (the road was within sight) but I got a clear vision of how the desert isn’t the friendliest place.

When I got back to camp, Matt and I decided that our last day in the desert should be spent chilling out to the max. We made a quick breakfast and made our way over to the Hidden Valley campground so Matt could climb some routes and boulder. We ended up doing this all day - which was great. Matt would go boulder, and I would be set up in my camp chair reading a book or writing. Throughout the day we met various groups of climbers, chatted, shared beta, and watched them climb their routes.

We spent a decent chunk of time at Intersection Rock - a big rock at the intersection of the Hidden Valley campground and the “big” road that goes through Joshua Tree. There was a large group of people learning to climb and tie knots, while two people in their 20s lead climbed above them. There were people everywhere - which was quite the change from the quietness we experienced during the week. Usually a busy National Park is not something I look forward to - but this time it was okay. Most of the people who were flooding into the park (cause the weekend was here!) were climbers, and it’s always cool to see people interact with nature in a way that doesn’t disrupt, but essentially co-exists. They added an energy to the park - everyone was excited and determined, and without sounding too California for you - it was a really cool vibe.

While we drove around the park one last time, we couldn’t believe our eyes… it looked like someone was floating between two giant rock formations. We must be dreaming, or maybe hallucinating, and then we got closer… There was someone highlining between the Hemingway wall formation and the adjacent rock!!! There they are, probably 400 feet in the air, slacklining over a canyon - it was BONKERS! We pulled over and watched the group take turns doing flips and walking across the line as multiple climbers climbed the Hemingway buttress under them.

As the sun began to lower in the sky, we went back to our campground to watch our last sunset in Joshua Tree. Obviously, as you’ve seen - the sunsets were always breathtaking, but the best part of the night? We got back to camp, and someone left some Charmin toilet paper in the pit toilet….. my hero.